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22nd July 2011, 22:13
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1,484
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Bigger ARB or TB?
On track the backs allways stepping out.Im on faulkner 200lb springs and group n's front and rear. So before i go on track again at brands, im thinking of upgrading the torsion bar or arb? What would be the most noticable difference to help the handling?
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22nd July 2011, 22:23
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#2
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Saxperience Addict
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Solihull / Bournemouth
Posts: 14,233
Car(s): 2015 Lapiz Blue Golf R
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Hard to be specific, but id say both together.
Maybe try 24mm rear Arb, then if you still don't like it then try 21/22mm torsion bars.
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22nd July 2011, 22:24
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#3
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Tonbridge United Kingdom (England)
Posts: 38,236
Car(s): Vtr, 172, throttle bodied track slut
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ryan For This Useful Post:
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22nd July 2011, 22:33
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#4
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1,484
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cheers mate legend
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22nd July 2011, 23:27
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#5
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 5,598
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group buy on torsion bars and arb's on rr at the moment too
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23rd July 2011, 08:54
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#6
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Saxperience Addict
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: A farm shed in Aylesbury
Posts: 14,916
Car(s): Corolla AE86
Peugeot 205 B18C (in bits)
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increasing the rear spring rate and arb size could make the situation worse. You will have a more oversteering car. You need to look at what is causing your issue rather than throwing money at upgrades.
First call would be either you are too low, and are sitting on the bumpstops when cornering, or the beam bushes are allowing uncontrolled movement.
Or its your driving style, upsetting the handling as you turn in to the corner, though a bit of oversteer into the apex can be a very fast method of driving as the car is nicely set up for a full throttle exit with plenty of space for power understeer..
First job - check the car is healthy.
Second - get an instructor at the next track to make sure you are doing things right.
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23rd July 2011, 10:44
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#7
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1,484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KamRacing
increasing the rear spring rate and arb size could make the situation worse. You will have a more oversteering car. You need to look at what is causing your issue rather than throwing money at upgrades.
First call would be either you are too low, and are sitting on the bumpstops when cornering, or the beam bushes are allowing uncontrolled movement.
Or its your driving style, upsetting the handling as you turn in to the corner, though a bit of oversteer into the apex can be a very fast method of driving as the car is nicely set up for a full throttle exit with plenty of space for power understeer..
First job - check the car is healthy.
Second - get an instructor at the next track to make sure you are doing things right.
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Spoox group a arb- It improves turn-in noticeably whilst reducing roll-induced oversteer which is infamous for many a Saxo spinning and/or being written off. The Rear ARB can be replaced simply by removing the Lever Ends from the Rear Beam and it does not involve any dismantling of the torsion bars. It cannot be seen as it lives inside the rear beam tube (Obviously all modifications should be disclosed to your insurer).
So why does it say it reduces oversteer?
Im no way near the bumpstops,i am only about 40mm on the back as its fully stripped out.But yeah im on shit tyres atm and its all stripped out so no weight on the back won't help! Im getting semi slicks in the next few weeks! But still the handling isnt even as good as my old mg zr standard!
And cheers mathias will have a look
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23rd July 2011, 11:07
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#8
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,362
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It's not as simple as saying oh big is better. You got to findthe optimum set up for your car, tyres and driving style.
Also balance is key. if you go by what some say on here then only a 25mm ARB and T/B are best, but it's not.
you may find 23mm t/b's with 24mm ARB works best
someone else may say 22mm t/b's with 24mm ARB is best
someone else may say 24mm t/b's with 24mm ARB works best.
dependant on a million and one things tbh.
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23rd July 2011, 11:07
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#9
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Saxperience Addict
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: A farm shed in Aylesbury
Posts: 14,916
Car(s): Corolla AE86
Peugeot 205 B18C (in bits)
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well the theory is you will control the rear tyre contact patches and therefore get more grip, but its not that simple. Also the saxo has a rear beam setup where there is no camber change as suspension moves up and down, making it less easy to adjust. Every person I have known who fitted a bigger rear ARB did so to get the car turning in sharper (ie dialing in oversteer)
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23rd July 2011, 11:37
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#10
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1,484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kristel10589
It's not as simple as saying oh big is better. You got to findthe optimum set up for your car, tyres and driving style.
Also balance is key. if you go by what some say on here then only a 25mm ARB and T/B are best, but it's not.
you may find 23mm t/b's with 24mm ARB works best
someone else may say 22mm t/b's with 24mm ARB is best
someone else may say 24mm t/b's with 24mm ARB works best.
dependant on a million and one things tbh.
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exactly,so i am only going to know if i change them :/ Rather than keep the set up ive got now!
Last edited by mangojace; 23rd July 2011 at 12:05.
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23rd July 2011, 19:34
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#11
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Down't road from Sheffield
Posts: 4,641
Car(s): Was:16v 106 XS ..... Now: Import 1.8 MX5
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Bigger rear ARB definately makes the back end more lively, I noticed a huge difference when I went from 19mm to 24mm.
Stiffening front = Understeer.
Stiffening rear = Oversteer.
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23rd July 2011, 20:11
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#12
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Established Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1,484
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Maybe its just my shity proxy 4's then as i cant even brake in a straight line proply with the front snaking.There so shit lol! Luckily ill have semi slicks on for brands though I dont mind a bit of oversteer anyway,rather have that than understeer It worked quite well at lydden, allthough my tyres were crap
Last edited by mangojace; 23rd July 2011 at 20:14.
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24th July 2011, 00:44
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#13
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southend, Essex/Thetford, Norfolk
Posts: 4,203
Car(s): Seat Mii Toca/VW Polo Gti 6c 1.8 turbo
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Bias Valve. Sorted.
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24th July 2011, 08:33
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#14
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Saxperience Addict
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: A farm shed in Aylesbury
Posts: 14,916
Car(s): Corolla AE86
Peugeot 205 B18C (in bits)
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is it definitely the front snaking or the rear? What suspension do you have?
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24th July 2011, 08:59
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#15
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ramsey st marys, peterborough
Posts: 8,288
Car(s): Saxo's, Corsa (Daily)
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Is the back trying to come round under heavy braking?
What brakes are you using?
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5th August 2011, 09:50
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#16
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Saxperience Forum Bum
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Scotland
Posts: 3,380
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start with setting ride heights ,having the rear too low ,in relation to front height will always make it tail happy --once you have that set and play with f+r tyre pressures ,then look at bar sizes .
even a soft sprung car should have BALANCE ,ulitmate grip is then got once you have the balnce right for your driving style.
ina straight line rar wheels should be JUST locking before fronts .but we are talking fractional amounts her .so if its been lowered and load sensor on earr has not been adjusted correctly you will have too much rear brakes.
the purpose of the sensor is to allow more rear braking as suspsnion is compressed at rear ,when you have car fully loaded.so get that right as well
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Last edited by axsaxoman; 5th August 2011 at 13:41.
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