cherry red gti turbo project, few more pics - Page 2 - Saxperience

Rowan · 19th March 2013, 12:55

The bends alone set me back around €100,- (85.80 GBP) which was a special price in combination with a lot of other stainless material.

Any local welder should be able to order these at a fairly low price.

robster247 · 19th March 2013, 13:42

That sounds like what I'm willing to pay, £176 for 16 bends is silly but where I live there is next to no metal merchants or places that will supply these kinds of bends.

Have you got a link to the site you got your metal from ? Maybe easier doing that but in the meantime I shall carry on looking around

Rowan · 19th March 2013, 13:53

I didn't order it from a website, found a guy who makes stainless exhausts (mainly for american cars) and I order the lot via him.

http://www.freewebs.com/jbranbergen/contact.htm

(Although I question his ability to communicate in English, but if you need help translating or anything else just give me a shout)

gazza808 · 19th March 2013, 15:29

You want stainless butt weld long radius elbows sch40 I would recommend but people do use sch10,

I did find a site of a uk company that was selling them for about 4quid Each but can't find it.

robster247 · 19th March 2013, 15:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by gazza808

You want stainless butt weld long radius elbows sch40 I would recommend but people do use sch10,

I did find a site of a uk company that was selling them for about 4quid Each but can't find it.

Okay mate, if you find it that would be great as I'm running out of ideas

gazza808 · 19th March 2013, 16:06

searched high and low and found it,
http://www.zx55.com/shopdisplayprodu...tings&szin=1.5
I've never ordered off them but will be shortly.

robster247 · 19th March 2013, 16:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by gazza808

searched high and low and found it,
http://www.zx55.com/shopdisplayprodu...tings&szin=1.5
I've never ordered off them but will be shortly.

You are an absolute star, thank you very much

gazza808 · 19th March 2013, 16:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by robster247

You are an absolute star, thank you very much

It's not often I'm useful!
If you order some let me know how you get on.

robster247 · 19th March 2013, 16:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by gazza808

It's not often I'm useful!
If you order some let me know how you get on.

Haha well you are today.

And yes I shall get some ordered and let you know what they are like when they arrive

e8_pqck · 19th March 2013, 17:27

If that flange is carbon steel you will need to cut some stress relief into it else it will warp when hot. I used alibre design to design my manifold in order to get it equal length so you can design the best route, its free for 30 days and easy to use. its harder than you think which leads me to question these guys knocking up fancy looking manifolds but unless they are designed properly and using CAD are unlikely to be anywhere near _ but they look nice.

gazza808 · 19th March 2013, 18:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by e8_pqck

If that flange is carbon steel you will need to cut some stress relief into it else it will warp when hot. I used alibre design to design my manifold in order to get it equal length so you can design the best route, its free for 30 days and easy to use. its harder than you think which leads me to question these guys knocking up fancy looking manifolds but unless they are designed properly and using CAD are unlikely to be anywhere near _ but they look nice.

I actually find mild steel copes with warping alot better than stainless tbh,

Also getting it equal is very fiddly but easy, when my buddy made his he used the same amount of bends and straight for each runner, how can it not be equal then?
And tbh I haven't seen a boosted tu5 any where near point they need to be exactly equal.

Ross^p · 19th March 2013, 18:16

I'm not convinced any car needs them to be equal - practically short of wrc or something where every half horsepower counts.

In NA cars equal length is far more important. In boosted however, equal flow resistance is more important - ie one runner should not have 4 90 degree bends when another only has one.

robster247 · 19th March 2013, 18:30

I'm not a perfectionist by any means but I will try my hardest to get it done right, if not I know I will have made my best effort so that will do.

By the way the turbo I'm using goes off the assembly number of : 3528773 and is a holset h1c

This big enough ?

robster247 · 19th March 2013, 18:54

Brother has just sent me a couple of pics of the turbo, yes it looks like scrap at the moment but that will soon change.

And looks like I will be going with a 3” exhaust as don't want reducers everywhere.

e8_pqck · 19th March 2013, 19:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross

I'm not convinced any car needs them to be equal - practically short of wrc or something where every half horsepower counts.

In NA cars equal length is far more important. In boosted however, equal flow resistance is more important - ie one runner should not have 4 90 degree bends when another only has one.

It's actually the other way - the turbo relies on pulses to spool up so an equal length on a turbo car is just as important - more important than the number of bends. I wondered that myself and everything i read up on pointed me towards equal length as the most important factor along with primary diameter. Any difference in gas speed vs number of bends is negligible.

Scoobys are a prime example - they have unequal length for the sound but an equal length makes a considerable difference to the power output if all you change is the manifold. Lots of scooby owners are prepared to acrifice a few horses though for that scooby sound - but it DOES make a difference.

blackie_2k5 · 19th March 2013, 20:11

For the steel, your best bet is to buy a couple of stainless U bends and cut out what you need from them, works out MUCH cheaper and can cut out the size of section you need exactly, better fitting and less wastage

As for mani, both right, but you don't need a fancy ex mani for a turbo car, pretty basic manifolds can be used to get more power then most could ever use

Take the vaux lad for example, stick with the cast mani/turbo in most cases as can get more power then they'll need on the oe cast item

If wanting big power, or to help with a certain mod/cams or turbo or something, then tuning the mani to a certain spec helps, but in majority of cases you'd not need to

e8_pqck · 19th March 2013, 20:46

Thing is though, (and the same reason I want equal length) is he is using a bigger turbo so he needs to maximize spool time. Equal lengths just like an na mani will create a scavenging effect from the other primaries and improve the gas speed through the turbo. unequal creates turbulence and relies on pressure to force the gas through the turbo, so for quicker spool, go equal length. Every bit helps.

gazza808 · 19th March 2013, 21:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackie_2k5

For the steel, your best bet is to buy a couple of stainless U bends and cut out what you need from them, works out MUCH cheaper and can cut out the size of section you need exactly, better fitting and less wastage

Only problem with using the 'u bends' is usually they are thin wall, you want as thick as possible really, with out going insane obviously.

robster247 · 19th March 2013, 21:37

Pipercross 80mm powercone £80
Samco extreme 90 bend £35
Samco extreme coupler £8
80 alloy bend £25
Hi grip stainless clips

I payed £30 for the lot and its all brand new. Should be fine for the turbo as it has a 3” intake.

blackie_2k5 · 19th March 2013, 21:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by gazza808

Only problem with using the 'u bends' is usually they are thin wall, you want as thick as possible really, with out going insane obviously.

Defo a good point, can get whatever size you need with a search though

It just works out more cost effective, same with building down pipe and making a full exhaust