Saxo Brakes / Suspension / Transmission / Tyres If you have queries or information to share regarding Saxo braking, suspension, tyres or transmission systems, please discuss this within this forum. |
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4th April 2016, 21:33
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#1
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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no breaks whats so ever
hey guys so i decided to scrap the pug xnd - vts conversion and have bought a peuegot 106 quicksilver the head gasket is going so will be doing the conversion on that instead.
the breaks dont work at all when i checked the brake fluid there was next to none so i went and got some dot 4 and filled it up the breaks go semi hard when the engine is off but when i turn it on the pedal will go all the way to floor and back my mate said they need bleeding but i think maybe the servo has packed up is there any way to test it and do i need a break bleed kit to bleed them the fronts are disk but the rear are drum thanks in advance
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4th April 2016, 21:50
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#2
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sunny Worksop
Posts: 441
Car(s): 1989 MK1 MR2 with V6 3.0L Camry engine
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If it was empty then 1st thing is to bleed them
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4th April 2016, 22:01
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#3
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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thank you
ah okay thank you can i just do that with a spanner and a mate or do i have to use a bleeder kit?
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4th April 2016, 22:02
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#4
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: telford
Posts: 312
Car(s): pug 106
pug 206
saxo vts
cupra r
saab 93 sp
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if its empty you have a leak. brake fluid dissipate.
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4th April 2016, 22:15
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#5
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sunny Worksop
Posts: 441
Car(s): 1989 MK1 MR2 with V6 3.0L Camry engine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minijkr
ah okay thank you can i just do that with a spanner and a mate or do i have to use a bleeder kit?
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Up to you, I have a vacumn bleeder, a pressure bleeder (Ezi-Bleed) but often prefer a length of clear plastic tube, a jam jar & a willing mate.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Phaeton For This Useful Post:
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4th April 2016, 22:18
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#6
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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ah i see ill do that then and yeah i thought i might have a leak, the car has been sat a while. so i will take the wheels off and have a good look thanks for your advice
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4th April 2016, 22:31
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#7
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sunny Worksop
Posts: 441
Car(s): 1989 MK1 MR2 with V6 3.0L Camry engine
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Does it have drums on the back, could be the seals in the cylinders
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4th April 2016, 22:38
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#8
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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yeah the rear are drums
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5th April 2016, 18:25
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#9
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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so tryed bleeding breaks today it didnt go so well the bleeding valves rounded and now i have a little bite on breaks but still foot to the floor breaking
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5th April 2016, 21:22
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#10
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9,100
Car(s): Amazon green VTR 16v, Inferno RS clio 182
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If you are really struggling you can bleed it (in a messy way) by slackening the brake line and bleeding until you see new fluid emerge from the joint. Don't expect it to be as good as a proper bleed but it can be done to give a bit of a better pedal as a get you home type measure
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The Following User Says Thank You to Gandi699 For This Useful Post:
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5th April 2016, 21:40
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#11
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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ive had so many different ideas throwen at me and different ways to do it my heads spinning lol, my good friend told me to check rear drums as he thinks the cylinders are shot so will be having a look tomorrow, when we were pumping the breaks the fluid wasnt coming out in a steady stream it was going down the pipe and then back up again and then completely stop and go again and it looked like fizzy pop but my mate was pumping in my opinion to fast
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5th April 2016, 21:43
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#12
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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we also used the method with out the bleed pipe by getting the breaks rock solid and then releasing the bleed screw till it squirted out and the pedal droped which lifted us 2 cm off the floor if that and gave us some bite on the break but not enough for safe driving
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5th April 2016, 22:50
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#13
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Saxperience Post Whore
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 9,100
Car(s): Amazon green VTR 16v, Inferno RS clio 182
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You should change the bleed nipples first off then when bleeding get your mate to pump the pedal slowly and progressively then unlock that bleed nipple while pedal is going down, then lock off before he lets the pedal back up that'll avoid sucking air back in.
Or buy an easy bleed kit - I can do mine on my own in 25 minutes without even jacking it up, takes all the hassle out of used correctly
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6th April 2016, 13:19
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#14
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Infrequent Poster
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Swansea
Posts: 168
Car(s): 106 1.4 gti replica (ish)
Fd rx7 1.3tt
106 1.1
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Hahaha the joys of brake nipples. I had a saxo 1.1 a few years back and snapped both nipples pmsl. Either do as gandi says or go get some new calipers and make sure the bleed nipples release before buying them
Don't let that put you off working on the car though, this kinda crap happens to the best of people! It's all replaceable and the best way to learn about cars is the bloody hard way! Gets easier as you get older
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8th April 2016, 15:12
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#15
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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haha yes i found the problem now i have managed to source a 32mm socket. Took the drums off and boom blown cylinders which is very good news  easy cheap fix could do with new shoes too so thats one more off the to do list for the mot. i do have another question sorry guys i know im a pain but just learning the cylinder being blown would i be right in thinking thats why i have a sh*t handbreak or would it be worth just replacing the lot ?
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9th April 2016, 11:20
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#16
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sunny Worksop
Posts: 441
Car(s): 1989 MK1 MR2 with V6 3.0L Camry engine
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Throw the rear shoes away, they will be contaminated & useless, not worth it for the sake of £10-15 in years gone by we would have reused them, but for the cost these days it's not worth it.
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9th April 2016, 12:12
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#17
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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im going to replace all the brake shoes no way can they go on the car there is so much brake fluid on them and there down to metal now just wondered seeing as the handbreak is on an adjuster would it be worth using same handbreak but i suppose for futre proofing i will do that one to lol i hat changing drums all the springs are b***ds
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9th April 2016, 17:35
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#18
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Regular Poster
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sunny Worksop
Posts: 441
Car(s): 1989 MK1 MR2 with V6 3.0L Camry engine
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Never had a Saxo with drums sorry but normally the metalworks can be cleaned up & Copperslip'd
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9th April 2016, 20:35
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#19
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Infrequent Poster
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Swansea
Posts: 168
Car(s): 106 1.4 gti replica (ish)
Fd rx7 1.3tt
106 1.1
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Think you can get a full kit of shoes and cylinders for about 60 quid on eBay.
Just got 2 Bosch cylinders for a tenner each, simples job but beware of them Allen key bolts they round easy! Luckily for me only 1 bolt rounded, I put some locking mole grips on, heated up the bolt with heat gun then used a large grips on the locking mole grip handles to wrench it up and crack the bolt. Replaced that with a normal bolt
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11th April 2016, 16:52
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#20
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L-plater
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 30
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cheers for the advice will be doing the job next week got all the bits i need for less than 40 quid at the motor factors  i hate the little allan key bolts on pugs they always round haha no doubt i will round them too.
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