Strenghening plate

[mark1311]

also, we have a couple tools to strip it back to bare metal, angle grinder with a backing pad and a sanding disk is good, also we use this hell of alot there fantacstic http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...rs-consumables

sam but ours is air power.

[sexy_gt]

Originally Posted by mark1311

personali if i was running over 200/220lb springs i would defo be seam welding the entire car, ect.

i have a decent 10point cage, re-enforced cage mounts (4mm plate and box section), strut top plates and a pair of strut braces. would of thought thats all the extra strength i will need for average joe in his track car?

i guess i will see my seams splitting if i need the chasis seam welding?

[mark1311]

Personli if I was u seam welding it wud be next thing on my list, you have added all this strenth to your car that's good! But what's actuality holds your car together? A few shity spot welds? You have strenthed all the indervidual chassis componets so now there all stiff but like I say all thatss holding the now very stiff panels together is very weak spot welds.

[sexy_gt]

point taken and noted

[mark1311]

only down road if you need anything doing mate let me no

[sexy_gt]

Originally Posted by mark1311

only down road if you need anything doing mate let me no

quite handy. i didnt realise you was close by. i dont mind you saying so either

[mark1311]

yer mate, old mans family from grimsby well was moved to welton now. yer no worrys mate like say if you need owt just give me a shout

[rorz_vts]

3 questions just out of interest, how long does it take to do the interior if its been prepared, once welded what do you use to grind down the welds just a dremel type bit and how long after the spot welds have been done can you replace the carpet and use the car

[mark1311]

Originally Posted by rorz_vts

3 questions just out of interest, how long does it take to do the interior if its been prepared, once welded what do you use to grind down the welds just a dremel type bit and how long after the spot welds have been done can you replace the carpet and use the car

how long does it take to do the interior if its been prepared? take it you mean if the cars stripped out and ready to go? if cars ready to be welded i would say just for interia seam welded about a day and half/ 2day. as your cant go hell for leather on it and you will distort the metal and thats last thing you wont.

genrali the welds look nice neat and tidy so just leave them, if theres a messy one ect, i just rub the air file over them to neathen them up, more you take off more strenth you taking away,

how you mean how long till you can replace the carpet? soon as its cool and zinc paints dry...

hope that answered your questions

[sexy_gt]

is that 2 days full labour charge?

[mark1311]

thats cost of it to be done over the 2day yer....

[Bedford126]

Originally Posted by mark1311

thats cost of it to be done over the 2day yer....

you can fully clean up and seam weld a saxo in 2 days. if you can mate your fast. we got a scooby 2 door in work for seam welding and a age welding in and its taken my boss 2 days to clean off all seam sealer and not started welding yet.

p.s do you heat treat the welds after with heat cycles or do you just weld up and leave?

[sexy_gt]

i take it you do plenty of geometry checks throughout?

[Bedford126]

Originally Posted by sexy_gt

i take it you do plenty of geometry checks throughout?

when we do them at work they are on the car o liner all the time to check with the laser chassis alignment i cant see how you can do a propper job in 2 days at home in a garage.

[mark1311]

Originally Posted by bedford126

you can fully clean up and seam weld a saxo in 2 days. if you can mate your fast. we got a scooby 2 door in work for seam welding and a age welding in and its taken my boss 2 days to clean off all seam sealer and not started welding yet.

p.s do you heat treat the welds after with heat cycles or do you just weld up and leave?

we just do an inch at a time, let it cool off then do another pannel ect so its not reali needed,

depends how long you work for each day, and on saxo's there not to much seam sealer to remove, compared, done a couple in 2days in passed, maybe a 3rd day wud be ideal cut work few less hours then haha

Originally Posted by sexy_gt

i take it you do plenty of geometry checks throughout?

yer mate, we check all time as we go, one them things though if you dont go hell for leather putting loads heat in one place at once then alow to cool off nicely we neva had a proplem,... i no of a place 1st time he did a full seam weld job, he preped all car, then just whent for it didt stop to let anything cool down at all,... say least there was "a little disortion" loll

[Bedford126]

Originally Posted by mark1311

we just do an inch at a time, let it cool off then do another pannel ect so its not reali needed,depends how long you work for each day, and on saxo's there not to much seam sealer to remove, compared, done a couple in 2days in passed, maybe a 3rd day wud be ideal cut work few less hours then haha

if you seam weld anything without going through at least 1 heat cycle then the weld becomes the strong point and the metal around becomes weak the metal around the weld needs to be heated to the same temperature as the weld then cooled together to become molecular bonded "all the same strength". this has to be done on all WRC cars and all BTCC cars iirc.

[rorz_vts]

Originally Posted by bedford126

if you seam weld anything without going through at least 1 heat cycle then the weld becomes the strong point and the metal around becomes weak the metal around the weld needs to be heated to the same temperature as the weld then cooled together to become molecular bonded "all the same strength". this has to be done on all WRC cars and all BTCC cars iirc.

how do you go about heating up the area with a heat gun? and do you do it before/during or after

[mark1311]

Originally Posted by bedford126

if you seam weld anything without going through at least 1 heat cycle then the weld becomes the strong point and the metal around becomes weak the metal around the weld needs to be heated to the same temperature as the weld then cooled together to become molecular bonded "all the same strength". this has to be done on all WRC cars and all BTCC cars iirc.

wrc and btcc cars is hell lot different to saxo's been used on track days the price that i said was a very good quailty job, yet on budget as most ppl are on here, yer we can off this how your saying no proplems at all... but its going to put the price though the roof that people on here just wont pay, as would be more then there cars worth in some cases, when you think how crap a saxo if buit its defo going to add some seriour's strenth compared to the odd few spot welds that hold saxos together,...

what am saying is a good service at a very very good price,... its like differance between... say Perspex windows and lexan windows, both do the job just some more money and that bit better then others,....

who you work for btw?

[Bedford126]

Originally Posted by rorz_vts

how do you go about heating up the area with a heat gun? and do you do it before/during or after

at work we use oxy acet to heat the panel upto cherry red before we weld it "about 6 inch at a time" then weld the panel join then leave to cool this keeps the weld pool nice and even and also allows a better weld then once its cool you heat the panel back up to cherry red and rapid cool it using a airline and your sorted.

the bloke who does it at my work and taught me how to do it rite worked at prodrive for 7 years welding roll cages in the wrc cars so he knows his stuff just welding the panel gaps will make you think the car is more solid but infact you have just doubled the weak spot at both sides of the weld.

[rorz_vts]

Originally Posted by bedford126

at work we use oxy acet to heat the panel upto cherry red before we weld it "about 6 inch at a time" then weld the panel join then leave to cool this keeps the weld pool nice and even and also allows a better weld then once its cool you heat the panel back up to cherry red and rapid cool it using a airline and your sorted.

the bloke who does it at my work and taught me how to do it rite worked at prodrive for 7 years welding roll cages in the wrc cars so he knows his stuff just welding the panel gaps will make you think the car is more solid but infact you have just doubled the weak spot at both sides of the weld.

so what your saying is its pointless to do unless you do it properly with the correct heating/cooling procedure