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Old 9th November 2007, 11:24   #1
Streetdragster
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Default Lowering the torsion bars, which guide?

Hi All

From reading FAQ's and old posts on here i've read two different guides to lowering your cars torsion bar....

Guide 1 is the badgesport guide
http://www.badgermotorsport.co.uk/lowering.htm

Guide 2 is the Suzuki Tuning guide
http://www.suzukituning.com/PSA/Suspension/Lowering.htm

Now, badgesport remove the anti roll bar, adjust the torsion bars, then refit the anti roll bar

Suzuki sport just adjust the torsion bar, and leave the anti roll bar in place.

Which is correct?

And, generally speaking, i know it varys car to car, but how much is adjusting the torsion bar by one spline 'notch' likely to lower the rear end? I'm looking for like a 30-40mm drop, nothing major.

Thanks

Matt
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Old 9th November 2007, 11:55   #2
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right i would not use the notch method! id take it out and let the arm hang adjust and refit the bar to be honest! and the suzuki method is the one i will be using to lower mine
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Old 9th November 2007, 12:06   #3
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they are both same guide you dont technically need to remove the anti roll bar the end plates can be moved up out of the way.
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Old 10th November 2007, 17:57   #4
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Do you not load up the antiroll bar by not slakening it off or anything?

Thanks

Matt
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Old 10th November 2007, 18:13   #5
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The only reason you need to tackle the end plate, is so you can get to one of the torsion bars.

First of all, measure the distance from a point on the caliper, to the ground. When you pull out one of the torsion bars, the corresponding trailing arm will drop, so have something to catch it. Now, all you need to do, is move the trailing arm back up and past the original height it was once at. Let's say you want to lower the rear 40mm, and the point you measured was 250mm off the ground, OK? Move the arm back up until it's now 295mm off the ground. 250mm (original height) + 40mm (amount you want lowered) + 5mm (which roughly equates for the weight of the trailing arm) While holding the trailing arm at this new height, pop the torsion bar back in, and repeat for the other side. Job done.
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Old 20th November 2007, 22:02   #6
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is the torsion bar in 2 halfs?? do you have to take it right out?? so you dont need to remove anti roll bar
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Old 21st November 2007, 03:51   #7
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take a look at the animation on this thread, theres 2 torsion bars:

http://www.saxperience.com/forum/sho...sion+bar+guide
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Old 16th January 2011, 14:50   #8
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can you only lower it only on the front?
or is the back end possible without buying lowering springs?
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Old 16th January 2011, 15:04   #9
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Don't forget though guys, things can and WILL go wrong with the job.

Yeah OK, i might be looking for mork here but leave it to someone who has the skills and knowledge to do it without a guide and knows what to do when bolts start rounding and bars are seized
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Old 18th January 2011, 02:18   #10
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I have used the Suzukituning one a couple of times, only do it ur self if u are confadent enough, if not, just pay someone else to do it
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Old 18th January 2011, 11:01   #11
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I did it myself using a combination of both guides and a Haynes manual. Didn't remove the anti roll bar, just moved the end plates out the way. Pulled the torsion bars out, set the height using jacks, then pop the torsion bars back in. Job done. My car had only done 20k though...
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Old 21st January 2011, 10:33   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesy3107 View Post
can you only lower it only on the front?
or is the back end possible without buying lowering springs?
on a saxo or 106 theres only 2 springs on the car, the front two. the rear suspension is adjusted by a torsion bar hence what this thread is about.
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