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Old 9th February 2008, 14:39   #1
VTR_Dan_VTS
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Exclamation no problem

no problem

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Old 9th February 2008, 14:51   #2
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there are 2 switches, temp gauge switch next to the thermostat housing and coolant switch on thermostat housing.
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Old 9th February 2008, 14:52   #3
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Try bleeding the cooling system!

Sounds like a big airlock!
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Old 9th February 2008, 14:54   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattg View Post
there are 2 switches, temp gauge switch next to the thermostat housing and coolant switch on thermostat housing.
When you say "switches" what do you mean? Actual "on off switch" or sensor? Also what needs to be done about them? Thanks & Sorry to sound dumb (Any pics?)

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Try bleeding the cooling system!

Sounds like a big airlock!
Its been bled, first things i tried. Thanks
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Old 9th February 2008, 15:07   #5
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Below is some pics of the only sensors / switches i can see surrounding the thermostat.
Maybe you can use them to show me what i need to do to fix the above "hotness" and "non gauge movement" prolems if the problems lie in this region?




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Old 9th February 2008, 17:25   #6
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Sorry but: *BUMP*
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Old 9th February 2008, 17:48   #7
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the temp switch/sensor reads the temp and sends the signal to the gauge, the coolant switch/sensor reads signals from the ecu to tell when its getting hot to switch the fan on. If the gauge aint reading properly i would take out the sensor and clean it up, this temp sensor not working will not register the coolant sensor and wont allow the fan to kick in as the coolant sensor thinks the car is still cold, im not sure exactly which sensor is the temp sensor but i think it has a blue body with a grey ring round it next to the thermostat housing on the cylinder head. hope that helps. could also be a loose connection on the switch.
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Old 10th February 2008, 17:32   #8
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Awesome thanks! So where is the "switch" that could have a loose connection?
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Old 10th February 2008, 18:07   #9
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I reckon the temp sensor which is next to the thermostat housing in the cylinder head.
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Old 10th February 2008, 18:11   #10
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Hi Dan, am having the same problem, have had system flushed out etc to no avail. so it looks like i will have to replace the therpo "swith" there under a tenner to bur n supposed to be easy to fit. but please u go first
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Old 10th February 2008, 18:19   #11
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See in the pic above, the shiny brass sensor with the dark blue plastic on it. That is brand new, i replaced it thinking it would fix the problem but it has not done so.

Can someone give me the exact names of the other parts i need to replace in order to fix my problems. I will order them from motofacts when i know and let you know how i get on....

THANKS
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Old 10th February 2008, 19:01   #12
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crap i think i got this problem too let me know how this goes i might just send mine in for service and mot early leave it to the experts
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Old 10th February 2008, 19:32   #13
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the 1 that has been replaced there is the coolant sensor in the thermostat housing isnt it.

The temp sensor isnt in the housing, if you have a haynes manual it tells you where it is.

Manual classes the temp sensor as 'temperature gauge sensor/warning light switch, has a blue body with a grey ring and is located at the left hand end of the cylinder head.

coolant sensor as in the 1 you have shown you have just changed is blue body with red ring on and 8 valve has a yellow ring.
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Old 10th February 2008, 19:44   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTR_Dan_VTS View Post
VTS

Temp Gauge Not Working, Fan Not Kicking In, Engine VERY Hot, Radiator & Cooling Pipes Seem Quite Hot, Coolant Tank Seems Quite Hot too!

The fan does not seem to be doing its job of cooling down the coolant and or radiator. I dont know much at all about this sector of a VTS. The temp gauge in the car does not move off cold. The engine gets extremely hot, aswell do the manifold (4-2-1).

Scared to drive the car too much as dont really want to do any damage to the car.. its my pride and joy!

Any help would be superb! REP will be given to all help
Is your car the twin speed fans on the rad ??
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Old 10th February 2008, 19:45   #15
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just robbed this off another site, might help.if you dont bleed it properly you will get trapped air , and overheating

and when you are filling it back up , use a 2L bottle upside down with the arse cut off , as the coolant expands when it heats up

when i was fitting a new rad i flushed out the block for 30mins with a garden hose stuck in where the thermostat goes , and let the water run out of the bottom hose that goes into the drivers side of the rad , then connected up the pipes , put thermostat back in. then opened the bleed point on top of the thermostat housing , and the top rad passenger side bleed point

then worked out how much coolant i would need for a 50:50 mix , and put that undiluted into the rad , that nearly filled the rad , and kept an eye on the thermostat housing bleed point , topped it up with a bit of water then started engine , as soon as water came out of the first bleed point i closed that , then the water expands a bit and came out of the rad , which is why u need the bottle to hold it , then once up to temp the water level drops and i filled it with more water till it was sort of near the normal mark , then closed the other bleed point as soon as water came out of that , then checed it every day for a week to see what level it was at and topped it up accordinly , i think i only topped it up once actually , but just kept an eye on it to make sure
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Old 10th February 2008, 19:46   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy2006 View Post
Is your car the twin speed fans on the rad ??
thats a good point, does it have aircon by any chance.
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Old 10th February 2008, 19:53   #17
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mine does not have air con. am gonna follow the bleeding instructions from http://www.saxosportsclub.com/Forums...c/t=28666.html and see if that works am a novice on cars but will give it a shot and get back to u tom.
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Old 11th February 2008, 01:33   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by furio-james View Post
crap i think i got this problem too let me know how this goes i might just send mine in for service and mot early leave it to the experts
Would this problem be covered in a standard service?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattg View Post
the 1 that has been replaced there is the coolant sensor in the thermostat housing isnt it.

The temp sensor isnt in the housing, if you have a haynes manual it tells you where it is.

Manual classes the temp sensor as 'temperature gauge sensor/warning light switch, has a blue body with a grey ring and is located at the left hand end of the cylinder head.

coolant sensor as in the 1 you have shown you have just changed is blue body with red ring on and 8 valve has a yellow ring.
I ordered it for a 16V VTS and they gave me dark blue with a yellow ring?
Haynes doesnt really show which one is which?
So which one on the above image is the temp sensor? The green or the light-ish blue one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy2006 View Post
Is your car the twin speed fans on the rad ??
It has only 1 fan, not 2 like i have seen on some VTS's. Not sure if they are twin speed ?i have been told its the same as standard furio fan?.

Quote:
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thats a good point, does it have aircon by any chance.
No it does not have air-con.


Also it has been properly bled, so the problem does not lie there.

Thanks! Answers asap please Really worried about my sexo!
Cheers!
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Old 11th February 2008, 11:33   #19
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i would check your fan relays to make sure they are ok also might be worth checking your fuses in the fuse box on the nearside inner wing i think fuse 3 and fuse 5 control the fan
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Old 11th February 2008, 11:35   #20
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Thanks, How would i got about checking the fan relays?
What about the other problems like the temp gauge etc?
Already checked the fuses they are all ok...
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