Wideband - were from? - Saxperience

Sophia_Bush · 25th June 2009, 21:44

right i need to sort wideband lambda sensor and controller to go with my predator. I know most people use the innoative one but is there any others that work aswell thats decently priced?

Any help with links much appreciated

dannygti · 25th June 2009, 21:49

i think the innovative is pretty much the best one out there for the money mate, a lot of people use them on v-hgh powered cars.

Sophia_Bush · 25th June 2009, 22:04

now I just need to find the place that sells them cheapest!

raunchz · 25th June 2009, 22:13

I got mine from eBay from a good reliable seller - had no probs yet!

Sophia_Bush · 25th June 2009, 22:16

cheap link? thanks

gixxa · 25th June 2009, 22:45

think you can get them of the bay for £180 with a gauge

ryanmt · 26th June 2009, 00:09

isnt the predator basically a mega squirt in a posh box? should be configurable for any wideband lambda sensor. The LC1 is good yet a tad expensive. You can buy any bosch wideband sensor and mate it to a wideband controller so might be worth just checking ebay for bargins

Sophia_Bush · 26th June 2009, 00:15

ryan make me one like yours!!

AndySAXO^p · 26th June 2009, 13:06

i got my wideband direct from the states, which worked out alot cheaper

andy

luthor1 · 26th June 2009, 13:52

Ryan makes the JAW (Just another Wideband) which while not-too-bad, tends to give out un-smoothed output which can make it more jerky than the Innovate.

The sensors themselves can be had for £50-60, then you've got to order from the states the JAW, and build it. Then, cut the plug off the Bosch sensor, and screw down the loose wires into the terminal block on the JAW (or use fiddly little spade ends on a mini-loom which aren't a very positive connection).

Unfortunately the JAW doesn't come in a plastic case, it's just a circuit board, so mounting it safely in the car can be problematic, and the screw-down terminal connector block isn't actually that strong. (I've got a JAW BTW)

On the other hand, he is correct, the Predator can read any Wideband controller.

Personally, I'd recommend the LC-1, because once you've imported the JAW, built it, cased it, butchered the Bosch sensor wires and connected them, IMHO you may as well go for the LC-1.

If the JAW came in a nice moulded plastic case, and received the Bosch plug directly into the side of it, then I'd recommend the JAW, but on balance, I currently recommend the Innovate.

Andy

Sophia_Bush · 26th June 2009, 14:07

well lc1 it is then i'll have a look on ebay, will pm you andy because its pretty close to getting mine sorted now

ryanmt · 26th June 2009, 15:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by luthor1

Then, cut the plug off the Bosch sensor, and screw down the loose wires into the terminal block on the JAW (or use fiddly little spade ends on a mini-loom which aren't a very positive connection).
Andy

never cut the plug off a wideband sensor!! its got a calibrated resistor inside it. Cutting the plug off renders the sensor useless, wbo2 sell the correct connectors to make up a proper loom. It works out at about 6 quid.

As luthor said the jaw wideband can be a bit un-smoothed. There is new firmware coming out in the not so distant future to smooth it all out. Also he is developing 2 new boards (one with a screen one without) and it looks like it will surpass the LC1 spec wise and be about half the price.

The jaw ive got comes with screw holes on the board so can be mounted in a box from maplins etc

luthor1 · 26th June 2009, 16:38

I didn't know that about the wideband sensor! Every day is a school day!

The Predator has input smoothing built in, so I can smooth the JAW input out pretty well so it's useable...

Ryan, perhaps put together a 'kit' which comprises the Bosch sensor, the J.A.W. built, in a box, with a 'receiving' plug that mates with the Bosch, and also connected up to the standard 4-wire plug that goes into the loom. This gives 12v power, ground, and the signal wire to send to the ECU? This would be PnP.

Basically, I cut the customers stock narrow band sensor plug off, then solder it up to the appropriate wires and heat shrink it so the LC-1 plugs straight into the loom to get power and send signal. This way, everything is reversible, and I just zip-tie the LC-1 controller to the battery frame, or one of the pipes in that part of the engine bay.

Simples!
Andy

ryanmt · 26th June 2009, 17:32

which sensor does the LC-1 use? I chose the 6066 for mine, more open design but reads faster. Theres quite alot to be said for lambda sensor placement when using a wideband. iirc about 1m from the head is best

luthor1 · 26th June 2009, 17:46

Bosch LSU 4.2.

We are really stuck with the position the exhaust manifold manufacturers choose - very little point drilling and welding in a bung in an alternative position, I think it's unjustifiable work.

The stock manifold is no where near 1m away...

Most aftermarket manifolds seem fairly sensible.

Andy

Sophia_Bush · 26th June 2009, 17:49

raceland manifold has the lambda sensor right at the back. Most other manifold have 2 holes for the lambda sensor, think i'll probably go for the lc1 since its the tried and tested one

ryanmt · 26th June 2009, 17:52

Yeah i know its the LSU 4.2 but theres a few sub types. The 6066 is technically a 4.0 but its still good to go compatibility wise.

http://wbo2.com/lsu/default.htm Brilliant site, tons of useful information on there regarding sensor models/placement etc.

luthor1 · 26th June 2009, 18:09

Ah, you know more about it than I do then - since I just use the sensors that come with the kits I don't pay much attention to the specifics... so I can't tell ya

Andy

LeeM · 26th June 2009, 18:48

maybe not the place to ask but what does the wideband do, how does it work and what does it replace?

ryanmt · 26th June 2009, 23:46

its just a type of lambda sensor. Narrow band just gives you "rich" or "lean" readings over a narrow range (hence narrow band around stoichiometric)

wideband gives you an accurate afr over a wide range