i know this has been asked many times including by myself so here i'll start a kinda how to-
ok so you'll need a falcon boot popper kit (ebay £17.99)
if your using a smooth boot plinth then i advise a new inner boot lock(scrappy £2.00)
so i started with smooth boot trim made sure it fitted to car before spraying and such
next was figuring out how to mount popper motor.
decided to head to scrappy to try ideas.
brought a mk1 boot lock plastic surround as the mk1 original central locking motor is secured to the left hand side.
next was to take out out lock barrel very easy it twists out. then i sawed off excess plastic that sticks out to far and sealed it with silcone to stop water gettng in.
then cut out a corner of the lock to fit the popper too
next was mount the support bracket to side i used original hole at bottom then redrilled out new hole and bolted it on with supplied bolts and washers
you should now have something that looks like this
this should now replace your original lock and bolt in as standard version, so its an easy swap if you change your mind later down the line.
next is wiring in.
simple wiring diagram
i did this more or less the same as wiring in an amp.
i used wires supplied to hook up the inline fuse and hooked it up into the fusebox in the engine bay
and pushed wire through grommet, took it under the carpet and across to drivers side.
haven;t seen where everyone else has mounted their switches either in centre or lower console but mines going into subframe, so used supplied bracket and drilled it out to fit nicer button.
so now my wiring come out under drivers seat near airbag wiring was. then from button under carpet and up c pillar.
right next was to start wiring running from boot to seat. easier said than done.
i made a nice little wire tool to poke down boot to the rubber bung
first i took the rubber bung out to see what was going on, took back drivers side roof linning down, poked a small metal rod throught the hole and felt for it coming throught hole in the roof this hole is about 3-4 inches inside roof near 3/4 window
from there then poke wire rubber hose and into boot top
then use your tool at the other end to be able to loop the wire on and pull all the way through to the popper motor. this took forever!!!!!! be warned cut knuckles and stress out.
then should come out here..
ready for fitting new motor and final wire in.
the old base unbolts and drops out then your left with getting the original unlock clip, so loosen the latch one side and take other bolt out to be able to wiggle the bar out like so...
take bar out and tighten latch back up
then i pulled wires through underneath the seat like so and put pull apart connections on them.
then came attaching new popper on base securing into place bolts in same as old one did.
i used this bolt as a ground as i don;t have rear wiper anymore
then bolted assembly up
drilled out subframe for button and holder
at this point connect up to battery before everythings back in, connect all together loose then try to make sure popper works. if yes your a winner
bolt everything up fix all wiring together tape it all down test again. now you wanna adjust the popper cable wants to be tight enough to pull but not to tight it keeps boot open.
at this point i tied a piece of wire to the loopand put it inside boot incase popper didn;t open. i also kept this wire on incase popper fails at some point, then all i have to do is pull wire from inside.
guide finished.
any questions i'll try to answer
ok so recently was thinking if thaT motor fails how do i arse around to open the boot. so came up with this
simple piece of mdf covered in carpet with bike gear cable running through it to the lock. simply pull the cable and it unhooks the boot should the motor fail. no need to mess around trying to undo screws in boot no more.
how to guide-fitting boot popper
Linear Mode
